Need to Improve Efficiency and Speed? Dug Ansley offers some expert advice...

with special thanks and acknowledgement to www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk and www.graupner.de

    Hull Design


This hull design is 'shallow Vee' with spay rails that run the length of the hull which provide lift, thus raising the hull up out of the water to reduce drag. The spray rails stop water riding up the sides of the hull by deflecting the water downward. As shown.

    Surface Drive Propellor

Leading power boat designs now almost always incorporate what are termed semi-submerged, super cavitating, surface piercing, or surface drive propellers. As the name suggest, the propeller isn't completely under the water all the time but runs very near to the surface and actually only partly in the water.
"But doesn’t that mean that you only get half the thrust?"
 
    Glues


Three adhesives have been recommended to us by model makers but you can try others.

1) Stabalit Express
2) Superglue
3) HART

'Hart' glue does hold ABS but easily melts and distort ABS. Superglue is good but you have to get the parts in the right place first time unless you use thick or slow-set super-glue. Stabalit is best as it comes in the form of an epoxy and gives you about 20 minutes working time before it sets. If you want to increase the setting time use less powder but don't use too little as it won't have its full strength when set. Just before Stabalit sets, excess glue can be cleaned off with methylated spirits. Rough the surfaces to be glued with sandpaper first to provide a key and thus ensuring a good bond.

    Running Gear and Electrics


The greater angle the universal joint has to work with, the more power it will drain from the motor.
"What about when you turn the boat using the rudder, don’t you lose power?"
Correct, limit the turning angle of the rudder to about 10 degrees each side of neutral. The less change in direction that the drive line has to deal with, the less power will be lost and thus more power delivered to the propeller. The boat won't turn tight circles like his. When fitting the shaft, ensure that there is lots of Stabalit around and under the shaft at the transom because it will soon be covered by the radio box floor. Be careful when fitting the rudder unit to get the clearance around the prop. The control rods from the servo to the rudder took some real bending to get right. Use of nail polish to lock in the grub screws can be substituted by super glue on metal components as it doesn't hold permanently.
A bulkhead of 3mm ply was fitted behind the motor to prevent water splashing all around the boat. Leave room in front of the gearbox to allow the cover to be removed for servicing but trying to get it back on again in situ is next to impossible.
A piece of foam holds the two battery packs in place or use Velcro.
    On the Lake!

Centralise the rudder and steering servos to the transmitter and check range. Oil and bed in the running gear and you are ready for the lake! Down at the lake on one third power our engine whirred like a food mixer and gurgled and burped until the propeller got to grips with the water. At full speed the whirring increased relative to the speed. It takes a few seconds for the propeller to grip the water from a standstill, so a steady acceleration is needed from the throttle for a quick takeoff. The roster tail of spray from the propeller does look really good!




    Aiming to Win? Possible Modifications for your IC Craft
 

high performance motor
high power batteries
water cooling
high performance running gear
direct drive running gear
metal props
electronic speed controller.

 

Kick Starting Marine Engineering Excellence

 

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